Kayaking at Stendörren in Sörmland
A paddling guide by Olle Persson, shared by Långholmen Kajak – the Swedish part of Northkayak.
The archipelago around Stendörren lies on the Sörmland coast between Nyköping and Trosa, south of Stockholm. It is a nature reserve in two parts: a mainland section with nearby islands, several of them reached on foot via suspension bridges, and an archipelago section that can only be reached by boat. On the mainland there is a nature centre (naturum) at Aspnäset, open in summer, as well as rental cabins and several wind shelters. The reserve is there to make the area accessible for outdoor recreation, but note that camping is not allowed on the islands you can reach on foot or west of the inner archipelago channel. The whole area – especially the archipelago section – is very beautiful. You paddle through a labyrinth of narrow passages with the open sea always close by, and there are plenty of fine rock ledges for a break or an overnight stop.
Getting there and where to launch
Follow road 219 between Vagnhärad and Nyköping and turn off at the sign for Studsvik. You can launch at Studsvik pier or at Stendörren. For Studsvik pier, continue past the industrial area down to the water; the best launch spot is the boat ramp at the far end of the jetties. For Stendörren, turn right about 2 km after leaving road 219, at the sign for Stendörren, and drive to the last car park before the barrier. 150 metres before the car park, a sign points right to a floating jetty for canoes and kayaks.
Route: a loop around Stendörren
- Start and finish: the floating jetty at Stendörren
- Distance: 7.5 km
- Difficulty: Easy
- Map: terrain map of the Sörmland archipelago, 1:50,000
- Highlights: a living archipelago landscape, dense islands with narrow passages, open sea, the nature centre and well-kept rest areas
The archipelago section of Stendörren is unique: within a small area you find every type of archipelago landscape, from inner to outer archipelago. The nature centre, right next to one of the best-known shipping lanes on the east coast, adds easily accessible information, and you can combine your paddle with a hike in the reserve.
Launch at the floating jetty in a calm bay surrounded by rocks and sparse pine forest. Paddle under the suspension bridge to Stora Krokholmen, out into Fladen and round Runnudden, with its jetties and the nature centre just behind. You are now in the inner archipelago channel, which often has heavy boat traffic. On your left, grazing animals at Aspnäset keep the landscape open. The shoal in the middle of the channel, Nordstjärnans grund, is marked by an old lighthouse, Fyrhuset – the channel is tricky to navigate just here. Pass north through the narrow passage that gave the area its name, Stendörren ("the stone door"), and round Krampö to the right, heading south-east. Most of Krampö is outside the reserve. You now have a shipping lane on your left in the strait towards Ringsö.
Once past Krampö, you have the Griskär Övre light on a skerry to your right. Follow the east side of Griskär, pass the Griskär Nedre light and round the southern tip. Across the strait towards Ringsö lies Barnmorskegrundet – "the midwife's shoal", which surely has an interesting story. Round Griskär and paddle up the narrow strait towards Springarholmen, round Granholmen to the south and continue up through the strait towards Klovskär. This is the most spectacular part of the reserve, with narrow passages, rocks and open sea mixed with inner archipelago, and many rock ledges for a rest or an overnight stop – for example on the south side of Springarholmen and the west side of Klovskär. Cross the open bay of Krampöfladen westwards and round Krampö on the south side, again through narrow passages towards the small islets beyond. You are now back at the inner channel: cross it heading north, watching out for fast motorboats, and paddle between Stora and Lilla Krokholmen back to the floating jetty.
More paddling inspiration
Stendörren is one of the gems in our guide to hidden gems for kayaking in Sweden. A seaworthy sea kayak is perfect for these sheltered waters – and with a kayak cart, the walk from the car park to the jetty is easy.
Text: Olle Persson