Paddling in the Åland Archipelago around Mariehamn
Åland -- so close, so similar, yet so different. The archipelago resembles the Stockholm archipelago with the major difference of being very little developed. It is easy to get here from the Swedish side. Ferry connections are available from Stockholm, Kapellskär near Norrtälje, and from Grisselhamn in Roslagen. With your own kayak, you simply roll onto the ferry and after a few hours drive off and, after 3 kilometers, launch your kayak at Lervik just south of Mariehamn. If you don't have your own kayak, you can rent one at the same location. There is also a bus connection here. Then it's just a matter of paddling off. On a half-day trip you can visit the former pilot station at Kobba klintar. If you want to do a longer trip, continue to Båtskären at the southernmost point of the Mariehamn archipelago. The nature experience is outstanding. The rich birdlife alone is worth a visit. Below you will find more details on where you can launch your kayak, or rent one, and find the way to Kobba klintar and to Båtskären. In the guidebook "Åland. Hiking, Cycling, Paddling" you can read more about outdoor activities on Åland and the surrounding archipelago. A suitable map at 1:50,000 scale can be purchased at the bookshop in Mariehamn, located on the pedestrian street in the center of town.
Just south of the Åland capital Mariehamn lie Nåtö and Järsö, which extend like a string of pearls straight out into the sea. They are connected by bridges and causeways. Around these islands there is an entire archipelago, the Mariehamn archipelago, to paddle in. The area is well suited for day trips, but of course you can also start a longer trip from here. A word of warning is in order, however. On the west side of the islands runs a fairway where the large ferries often pass. If you see a vessel in the distance, wait in the shelter behind a skerry until it has passed. The wake waves can be high and it can be difficult to spot kayakers from the ship's bridge, let alone make any evasive maneuver. So get out of the way in time -- the ships arrive faster than you think.
Launch point: The floating dock at SGU kayak rental, the small boat harbor in Lervik; alternatively at Dragsvik dock a little further south with a boat launch ramp on Järsö. At Dragsvik you launch the kayak at the innermost part of the small boat harbor at a narrow grassy slope toward the water.
To get to Lervik, follow Ålandsvägen in Mariehamn southward. It later becomes Ytternäsvägen. When after about 2 km you see water ahead, turn right and then immediately left. At the first parking area you pass on the left side is SGU kayak rental. Here there is a floating dock and parking. Further out in the harbor there is also a ramp. There is also a bus connection here from the center, stop "Lerviks småbåtshamn". To reach Dragsvik dock, continue past Lervik and follow the road until it ends on Järsö. There turn right onto a smaller road about one km to Dragsvik. A couple of ramps are available for launching.
Kayak rental
AB Friluftsentreprenörerna SGU (Mariehamn). www.sgu.nu. Tel: +358 18 14757
Nimix (delivers kayaks around mainland Åland on request). www.nimix.ax. Tel: +358 50 66 716
More information
More information is available in the guidebook "Åland. Hiking, Cycling, Paddling" by Olle Persson, published by Vildmarksbiblioteket. Or from the Åland Tourist Information, Stora gatan 8, Mariehamn. Tel: +358(0)18 24000, www.visitaland.com
Feel free to continue reading about my trip in the Åland archipelago in the next post, "Kayaking around Lervik and Kobba Klintar".
Olle Persson